It seemed that without even realising we had gone through the wardrobe and opened the door in a whole other world. Gone were the coarse shrubs and menacing rocks to be replaced by well-tended grass, orchards and a narrow path that was bordered on one side by a tiny gurggling canal and sheltered by overhanging trees. Little girls chased runaway sheep while their mothers hobbled amiably behind them. As was to become a reoccuring theme though, our steep downhill climb was matched by an equally steep uphill struggle. At the top of the hill sat our homestay accomodation for the night and five ice cold beers so there was no two ways about it really. We would have to climb the hill. Forty minutes later we had collapsed on the grass at the top, panting and staring with horror at the mountain we had to climb the following day. Hiking at this altitude was like walking around with lead in your shoes and six cigarettes in your mouth. Lucia woke us up the next morning with pancakes, an obvious but delicious ploy to try and make us forget about the day ahead. The next distraction was the promised oasis, a bizarre and really contrived little area on the valley floor where a cluster of hotels with swimming pools had been built as a way to attract tourists. For four hours we sat by the pool staring at the mountain that loomed over us. After lunch we would handle it but for now we would have to settle for a spot of sunbathing. Eventually though my muscles started to ache, my throat started to call out for oxygen and my head started to throb. As i sat and gasped on a rock, trying desperately to ward off an oncoming asthma attack and some impromptu vomitting, the boys sped off towards the top. So much for sticking together. For the next half an hour i stumbled along alone, stopping for a rest at every bend and cursing those lazy tourists who had opted to hire a donkey to do the walking for them. The last day was a bit of a waste of time. Gary ran around outside taking pictures of little girls and their alpacas. Trail or one of its alternatives. If you are interested in printing any of our work or would like us to write or take photos for your publication, please contact us at - gary. The sun is shining and the water is warm.